An introduction to the woodworkingrouter. The router is probably the second most important power tool for a woodworkingshop. In this video, I’ll go over the basics and get you up to speed quickly. After watching this video, see part 2: Your first router project: http://youtu.be/RmyytuR-iVE
The true quality of steel used in tools varies according to the
job that tool is required to do.
Tensile qualities (being capable of twisting and bending without breaking)
whereas a wood chisel demands a hard finely grained steel that will sharpen as well as maintain a good cutting edge.
Neither steel could be used for the other job
a brittle screwdriver would not sharpen properly.
Measuring: The accurate measuring of given distances is necessary
if your work is Tobe of a good standard. Here are three tools
that are generally use.
1. Steel Tape: This is mainly used for longer measurements
such as marking out on boards and checking the overall
dimension of work.
Folding Rule: The Four-Fold rule of one meter are convenient for
the woodworker to carry in the apron pocket.
The best quality rules are made from boxwood with brass hinges and
end-plates which are designed to prevent excessive wear.
Boxwood rules have been superseded by a shock-proof plastic
type with stainless Steel fittings.
Steel Rule: This is an essential part of the tool kit for accurate
marking out and the square zero end which must not be misused,makes
gauge setting and the measuring of internal dimension easy.
Pencils: Carpenters pencils which are oval in section and have a heavy
lead are longer lasting than normal pencils when marking boards for sawing.
Chalk Line: Straight lines can normally be gauged parallel to the edge
of boards with a rule and pencil, but when the edge is uneven or
waney a chalk line is useful.
Marking Knives: Marking knives are traditionally made of steel with
hardwood handles (Rosewood) riveted on.
They are hard wearing but because of their wide blade are not
convenient for work in small spaces eg: Making dovetail pins from tails.
Try Square: The Try Square, mitre Square and Sliding bevel are
traditionally made from similar materials.
They are dual- purpose in that they are used in marking out joints
and, at a later stage in the work for testing squareness and a variety of angles.
Mitre Square: Made in a similar manner to the try square, its blade is set
in the stock at the acute angle of 45 degree and the obtuse angle of 135 degree.
The stock is protected against wear and damage by in-laid brass plates.
Sliding Bevel: The steel blade has a 45 degree bevel point at one end
and is slotted into a plastic stock.
The offset slot enables lines to be drawn along its full length clear of the stock.
A finger- tight locking lever is used ti fix the blade and to release it for adjustment.
Cutting: Chisels- the best types are made of high- quality carbon steel that will maintain a sharp cutting edge throughout their length.
They are fairly brittle and can be dangerous if not used properly.
It is important to have the right type and size of chisel for each job.
Firmer Chisel: This square edge chisel is used in work where a certain amount of robustness is needed.
Like most chisels it is made in a dozen blade sizes from 3mm to 50 mm wide and can be fitted to a variety of handles.
Mortise Chisels: There are three main types.
It is the registered type that you probably use more than any other, particularly for cutting mortises under 9mm wide.
The Router: The main use is to clean out and level grooves and housing to a set depth – The bulk of the wood usually have been removed by other means, such as a chisel.
Hammers: Hammer heads are usually made from a high grade alloy steel which has been forged to one of two shapes.